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By Team STRC, December 13, 2009 9:23 am

Tips on building our Aluminum threaded shocks for the HPI Blitz.

Continue reading 'Product FAQ: HPI Blitz Shock Building'»

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By Team STRC, November 27, 2009 11:05 pm

Note: We recommend new ball links from Traxxas when installing these push-rods (Traxxas Part Number: 7028 or 7208X (Steel))

Note: Take extra care when snapping the ball links into the delrin turnbuckle ends.

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By Team STRC, October 15, 2008 11:21 pm

Note: Wider hex and the stub axles are for the front, the narrower hex are for the rear

note: to install the front, replace the stock axle with the included stub axles and install the hex adapter on it.  Remove the set screw and put in the original kit drive pin, and then follow with set screw to secure it in place.  A bit of blue lock-tite will help secure the set screw in place.  Install drive pins and set screw the same for the rear.

note: Those running ST3652 series aluminum rear hub carriers will have to do the following:  Do not use any axle washers.  Use Associated drive pins (smaller diameter) especially when using the ST1953 MIP CVD driveshaft kit.

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By Team STRC, October 13, 2008 8:37 pm

Note:  The skid plate mounting blocks are not the same.  There are two fronts and two rears

Note: you must use blue lock-tite on the screws that hold the mounting blocks in place to prevent it from vibrating loose during running

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By Team STRC, October 13, 2008 8:33 pm

Note: The front 17mm hex adapters are the narrower ones.  You will need the original bearings and install them into the 17mm hex adapters.  You will then use the original front wheel nut to hold the adapter in place on the front axle.  A thin walled wrench might be necessary to lock down the front wheel nut

Note: The rear 17mm hex adapters are wider than the front by 2mm for more wider stance in the rear of your SC10 to provide more stability.  To install, remove the set-screw, slide the 17mm hex adapter over the rear axle (removing the kit spacers and drive pin) and then install the included drive pin.  Once the drive pin is in, re-install the set screw.  A bit of blue lock-tite will help keep the set screw in place

Note:  You have to readjust your slipper clutch once you install the higher traction 1/8th scale buggy tire to prevent snapping the new drive pins
if you want stronger drive pins, MIP/AE C-CVD rebuild kit’s pin are of the right diameter and stronger in material as well.

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By Team STRC, October 13, 2008 8:31 pm

Note: The advantage of 1 deg. rear toe-in hub carriers is the added toe-in angle providing more traction in the rear and straight line stability

Note: the set screw is to hold the hinge-pin and the hub carriers in place together and the hinge-pins rotate in the arms only (and not the hub)

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By Team STRC, October 13, 2008 8:30 pm

Note: The included spacers goes underneath the inner camber link mount ball stud to maintain proper roll center

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By Team STRC, October 13, 2008 6:18 pm

Note: Use the plastic bushing from the plastic rocker arms to install the aluminum rock arms

Note: Use the original screws to tighten the push-rod, but do not over tighten.  Once you feel some resistance, you should stop tightening.  Blue lock-tite will help the screws stay secured.  Overtightening the screws will strip the rocker arm threads and damage the part

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By Team STRC, October 12, 2008 11:53 pm

Note:  The design of this battery strap is to allow for better lipo battery plug access over the stock plastic battery strap

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By Team STRC, October 12, 2008 11:15 pm

Note: The advantage of 1 deg. rear toe-in hub carriers is the added toe-in angle providing more traction in the rear and straight line stability

Note: the set screw is to hold the hinge-pin and the hub carriers in place together and the hinge-pins rotate in the arms only (and not the hub) this is to be used with E-clip type hinge-pins that comes with the aluminum a-arms (ST2555 or ST3655, ST3631) or lock-nut type hinge-pin kit (ST3640BK and ST3640S).  DO NOT use the setscrew when using the stock hinge-pin (screw into the A-arm type)